Saturday, 26 September 2015

The Bossa Nova Trail

Because of my preoccupation with finding a performance venue in Rio, I didn't do much research about sightseeing before leaving home.

I did try to book a Bossa Nova tour.  But the only one I could find was not available on our days in Rio.

Having found the nightclub TribOz on our first night here, our mission is now complete, and we can relax and enjoy ourselves for two days.

With only a quick read of the guide book and a cursory search of the Web, I manage to put together my own " bossa nova trail".

Here's my list:
  • Garota de Ipanema, on Avenida Vinicius de Moraes.  This is the cafe where Tom Jobim and his friend Vinicius wrote The Girl From Ipanema, inspired by watching a beautiful young girl walk past each day on her way to the beach.  It is now a busy restaurant, bursting with bossa memorabilia.  We decide to go there for my birthday dinner.  It is a memorable treat.  But we don't see the boys who sometimes come down the street practising Capoeira (a Brazilian martial art).  Fingers crossed for our next visit to Rio.  
  • Vinicius Restaurant and Piano Bar.  This place is across the street from Garota.  They have live music, although we don't manage get to a show there.
  • Toca de Vinicius, on the same street.  Fantastic music shop specialising in Bossa Nova books, CDs and other memorabilia.  The proprietor is friendly and chats with us in English.  I buy several CDs that I have never seen for sale in Australia.  Apparently they often have live music outside the shop on Sunday afternoons - another thing to watch for next time.
  • Bossa Nova and Companhia.  A music shop in the Copacabana area.  Larger and more impersonal than Toca, but they have a huge range of stuff, including musical instruments.  I buy a DVD of Tom Jobim's show in Los Angeles with guest appearance by Gal Costa.  I already have the CD of this concert, but now I can watch it.
  • Beco das Garrafas (Bottles Alley).  An alleyway alongside BN & Co, where Tom Jobim and his friends used to perform in the small bars.  The neighbours got fed up with the noise and would throw bottles down at the revellers.
  • The nightclubs on Beco das Garrafas.  As we inspect these from the outside, a woman invites us to come in and have a look.  There is an honour board listing all the famous people who have played there (including Tom Jobim) and lots of old photos and other memorabilia.  There are two bars - Bottles Bar, and Little Club (which is very intimate).
  • The statue of Tom Jobim at Arpoador Beach, which lies between Copacabana and Ipanema.  This statue was inaugurated in December 2014.  When I spot it, my heart skips a beat.  It is as if he has come back to life and is strolling along the beach front, guitar casually slung over his shoulder.  I feel compelled to take his hand in mine.
  • The Galeão Tom Jobim Airport, renamed to honour him a few years after his death.  In the check-in area there is a plaque with the lyrics of his famous song "Samba de avãio" (Song of the Jet).
It all adds up to a satisfying pilgrimage.

During our two days in Rio we are unable to get to the Botanic Gardens.  I've seen them in the video of Diana Krall's concert in Rio, and they look stunning.  But there isn't enough time to do everything. Never mind. Next time.

But later, I read about the Botanic Gardens.  It incorporates ... the Tom Jobim Memorial.   It has a museum with ... "the complete Tom Jobim collection"!  "A permanent exhibition with pictures, original musical score sheets, personal memorabilia and videos of some of his performances".

And I have missed it.  How could I not have known about this?

This gives us one more reason to return to Rio.




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